Help my hatched dove!?

Question by Brianna L: Help my hatched dove!?
My doves laid an egg and it hatched! As excited as I am, I don’t know anything about keeping them alive. Help?

Best answer:

Answer by Bob
Do you mean your eggs hatched?

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3 comments on “Help my hatched dove!?
  1. Nic says:

    If the mother dove is there, leave it up to her…she’ll know what to do. as long as you keep her in good health the babies should be fine. We left my baby budgie with its mother until we could tell it was trying to leave the nest (at this point they should be eating their own seed etc) and started handling it then. But it dewpend what you want to do with the baby dove…do you want to tame it? if so you could try hand raising it…many pet shops and breeders could help tell you how to do this but it will involve feeding the dove itself and keeping it separate from its mother. Or you could do what ive done and wait for it to leave the mother and then starta taming it away from the others

  2. gingroberson says:

    Are these pet doves (in a cage) or wild doves?

    I found this information for you on Yahoo Research.

    Since you hatchlings are with both parents I think the only thing you would need to reinforce would be the tempreture and make sure the parents are feeding the baby. Your new born dove does not suckle, the parrents regurgetate (throw up) partically digested food in order to feed the new addition to the family.

    Note: Chill is very, very dangerous for young chicks. They must be kept warm, 85 degrees F. at least. If you find a chilled chick, warm it immediately and before trying to reintroduce back to the parents or feeding it.

    A) You will have to keep chicks warm all the time. In the winter I have a ledge over top of a baseboard heater where I sometimes set a small box or shoe box with a baby bird. You also have to put a nest pad or some material in the bottom so that the baby does not get splayed legs (very, very important). You can use a small carrier fixed as a hospital cage with sides blocked to keep the heat in and a light bulb or heat lamp over the top. Of course, a brooder box is the thing to have if you have one. If you just use a regular heat source you will also need to put a cloth towel right on top of the baby. They must be kept very warm, (85 degrees F. minimum) or they will die from the cold even if it is not cold to you. After all, they are use to having the mother bird set on top of them with their body heat. You will have to feed about four times a day and then decrease to maybe two times as they get older.
    There is one thing that you should know if you (or anyone) breeds birds. Have a baby “emergency kit” ready on hand and ready to use.
    In it you’ll need:
    A brooder: Easy to make from the medium or large sized molded Plastic “Kritter Keepers” available at almost any pet store. You’ll need two. One 15 watt submersable fish tank heater. Fill one Keeper about a third to 1/2 of the way with luke warm water. Put the heater on the bottom, set the other Keeper on top, so it sits in the water. Plug the heater in, a little red light will come on telling you it is working. Even if it is on the highest setting its not going to melt the plastic. For a really warm brooder place a light towl on top and wrap one around the sides. From time to time touch the side to see if it is warm. Put about an inch of Pine shavings on the bottom. Towels get dirty too fast and you’ll be washing them all the time. DO NOT use Cedar shavings. Change often. Now you have warm nest for your squabs (or whatever). Place the plastic lid on top. It is “vented” for air. Store away the other top. This home made “water brooder” should cost around $ 50.00 total. If it saves lives its worth the expense. I have two $ 800.00 digitally controled brooders but I only trust the water brooders for very young birds. Been using them for years.
    Also, in the kit you’ll need Handfeeding Formula. I use Exact, nothing else, nothing added. I PREFER the Macaw formula over the regular Formula. Now the only tool I use to feed baby pigeons is a O-Ring syringe. 1cc for very young, larger ones for older birds. Its not rocket science, anyone can handfeed once you do it a couple of times. You’ll get a routine. My husband and I both feed differently. I feed fast, he goes slower. Just make sure you fill the “bag” and not so much as to start going up the throat. You’ll see what I mean. Baby Pigeons will wean faster than any other bird that I know. I’ve had them weaned off of formula before their pinfeahers have all opened. When they are pretty much feathered I move them to a cage and present water, by sticking their head in it-Once is usually enough- and regular Pigeon Food in a bowl. I have a “tutor” sometimes with them- usually a dove or a docile adult pigeon to show them how to pick seed. If I go to feed and their crop is full of little round things I don’t feed them. Done. They may beg, but they usually beg as they are eating. Some babys are very, very fast, others take a bit more time. I have handfed at least a thousand birds of all kinds, pigeons are pretty darn easy.
    Thanks for your great advice to the list on brooders, hand feeding, etc. I’ll add one more point – when your doves are learning to eat on their own, put your fist next to them making a hook out of your index finger. Tap your index finger up & down in the seed. This acts as the same tutor as an adult dove being in with them pecking at seed. When I do this, my young ones start pecking at the seed almost immediately. Also, doves/pigeons usually drink right after eating so dip your youngs head in water at that time.
    Methods of Feeding:

    A) Just a suggestion but you might want to try mixing your hand feeding formula in a Dixie cup and poking a small hole about 1/3 o

  3. isaac lloyd says:

    can you take closures from a 29/60 and have them work on a 29/40-120 casing

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